HIGHLIGHTS 5/7 BFW SS26

David Koma

For his first menswear show, David Koma drew inspiration from three Davids: football and pop icon David Beckham, Michelangelo's sculptural masterpiece David - and himself. Titled "I Love David", the collection explored themes of ego, identity, self-staging, and masculinity. These references were translated into distressed denim trousers, checked shirts, faux fur coats, tailored suits, as well as knit and leather pieces adorned with hand-embroidered hibiscus brooches.

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Haderlump

Haderlump took the forgotten art form of exlibris-once used to mark ownership in books-as the starting point for its eponymous collection. Subtle prints and contrasting decorative seams evoked these miniature works of art, while a wide range of natural materials-from linen and leather to cotton and wool-reflected the value of the analogue in a digital age. The result: oversized blazers and coats, tailored and intricately draped dresses, and layered looks that became artworks in their own right on the runway.

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GmbH

A dramatic presentation in three acts: Under the title "Imitation of Life", GmbH unveiled a collection filled with poetic and political resonance, asking: How do we navigate daily life in times of unrest and cruelty? The designers sought answers in their own childhoods, exploring a space between fear and innocence. Delicate satin boxer shorts, tops, and shirts were paired with structured tailoring. Oversized bows adorned the backs of fitted blazers and coats, while statement crop tops and hoodies were styled with elegant trousers.

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SF1OG

Within the NEWEST format, SF1OG unveiled a collection steeped in longing and inspired by historic portrayals of loving women. The runway came alive with models, some symbolically struck by Cupid's arrow, clad in jackets and trousers crafted from antique fabrics, dresses featuring leather corsets and flowing skirts, and tattooed leather vests that seemed to meld seamlessly with the wearers' skin. Paired with shimmering fabrics and sparkling embellishments, the collection was at once raw and romantic-sharp in silhouette yet undeniably vulnerable.

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